The Workhouse

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Before leaving Bath, we took the opportunity of promenading around the landscaped gardens of Prior Park.  The gardens are attached to what was once the second largest house in England (the largest at time in 1720 was Blenheim Palace), however rather than being owned by aristocracy it was built by a quarry owner – Ralph Allen.  He came to Bath in the early 1700s as a 15 year old assistant to the local postmistress, was postmaster by the age of 19, and realised that he could create a national postal system that meant that mail could go direct rather than via London, which had been the case for ALL mail up until that point.  He made a lot of money as a result, bought some quarries outside of Bath, and set about selling the creamy-yellow limestone to all the local builders. It is that stone which so clearly characterises Bath architecturally.

Bath Royal Crescent - apparently each townhouse is worth now around £4m !

Bath Royal Crescent – apparently each townhouse is worth now around £4m !

In the gardens is a Palladian bridge across a lake in the gardens, one of only four in the world.

The Palladian bridge

The Palladian bridge

Today we’re moored at Avoncliffe, where the canal crosses the River Avon valley over an impressive aqueduct.

Brutus' Avoncliffe mooring

Brutus’ Avoncliffe mooring

 

Avoncliffe aqueduct

Avoncliffe aqueduct

The river was providing water power here driving fulling mills for the wool industry for at least 300 years before the canal came, and a large house was built for the local handloom weavers. By 1830, it had become the local workhouse.

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The history of workhouses is interesting, originally conceived in 1388 in order to restrict the movement of itinerant agricultural labourers after a third of the population died in the Black Death. Over the next few centuries they evolved into institutions where the ‘inmates’ were the paupers of society. Laws were passed to ensure that the wealthier residents of a parish contributed to the running of the workhouses – an early form of social welfare. Two things are interesting; firstly that a distinction was made early on between those who ‘couldn’t’ work, and those who ‘wouldn’t work – the former received considerably more help, the latter ‘idlers’ encouraged to find work; secondly, that being in a workhouse meant access to rudimentary medical care (on the state), which wasn’t available to the general population ! Hence there was many attempts to feign ill health. The end of the ‘workhouse’ laws came in around 1930.

Having a bath in Bath

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Each of us has briefly visited Bath in years gone by, however this time we’re taking the opportunity of spending a few days here.

Bath is a ‘World Heritage Site’, and it is rather grand.  To get an overall impression, we followed the National Trust’s 6 mile ‘Skyline Walk’ over Widcombe and Bathampton Downs, overlooking the city. The weather was warm and dry, and the views well worth the effort of the initial uphill climbs.

On the Bath 'Skyline Walk'

On the Bath ‘Skyline Walk’

When we’re cruising it’s great to be on the boat out in the countryside, however whilst in a city we also like being tourists, and last night we treated ourselves to a session in the Thermae Spa, which is a bit like a posh water-park. Bath is renowned for its hot mineral water springs – the Romans built hot baths and steam rooms there 2000 years ago. The spa comprises warm spring water pools on different floors, a number of steam rooms with different aromatic scents, and a roof-top open air pool overlooking the city roofs.

Roof-top spa pool

Roof-top spa pool – the warm water apparently originally fell as rain as recently as 10,000 years ago.

We watched the sun set over the city chimneys in an air temperature of 7 deg, but up to our necks in water at 33.5 deg – a really special treat.

thermae-bath-spa

 

 

Bradford

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We’re in Bradford tonight, but not the Yorkshire one ! This is Bradford-on-Avon, a very interesting and historical town in West Wiltshire, and one which made good use of the river as a power source for the many wool textile mills that once dominated.

The boat’s mooring is right by a medieval Tithe Barn, built in the mid 1300s, and which still has it’s original roof timbers.

Bradford-on-Avon tithe barn

Bradford-on-Avon tithe barn

650 year old roof timbers

650 year old roof timbers

Some of the rather newer boats along the way haven’t fared quite as well :

Sunk...

Sunk…

Burnt out.....

Burnt out…..

A bit scruffy...

A bit scruffy…

We’re off again !

Well, after a ‘break’ of four months we’ve started cruising again !  We booked ourselves into a marina in Devizes, at the bottom of the country’s longest continuous canal lock flight thinking the winter would be easier to cope with. In reality, apart from two or three frosty mornings the weather has been quite friendly.  The Caen Hill locks became our regular morning dog walk so we feel we know them quite well now !

Caen Hill lock flight, Devizes

Caen Hill lock flight, Devizes

We’re often asked whether it’s cold and damp on the boat in winter, however on fact it’s very cosy, and often too warm with the stove lit !

Brutus safely tucked up in his Christmas marina berth

Brutus safely tucked up in his Christmas marina berth

Today (Fri 1st) we’ve cruised to a little village called Seend – we plan to be in Bath Sun/Mon.

The local authority cuts seem to have impacted on the village a bit – the library now has room for only one person at a time. Still it’s a nice colour.

Seend library

Seend library

Well stocked too !

Well stocked too !